WaveCams: the waves have arrived, where do they come from?

Today we change our perspective. In the previous posts about time-stack construction that allows us to estimate the period and height of the waves, we have always been looking at our beach in a one-dimensional cross-section. Today we will be looking at the waves in two dimensions. The wave direction plays an important role in multiple processes on the coast, it can drastically change the degree of exposure of our beach to storm events, changing the current’s direction and magnitude modifying sediment transport. In short, without an estimation of the direction in which the waves arrive at the coast, the hydro-morphological analysis would be incomplete. To illustrate, let’s travel to […]